Water crisis in the villages on the Nongkhlieh ridges

Caves photo are copyrighted property

Elaka Nongkhlieh which lies to the east of Jowai under the Saipung Block is one of the most neglected areas on the District but recently the area receives tremendous attention due to two reasons. The area under the Nongkhlieh ridge is unique because it has the highest density of caves and the area also boast to have in its procession the longest and the deepest cave in the country. The second reason is also because the Elaka has huge mineral reserves which consist of lime stones and coal deposits.

Children in Nongkhlieh particularly girls in the age 7 to 19 spend most of their waking time in collecting water. Wells near the village has dried out and only those on the lower slopes of the hills still have some water. Even from these wells, children have to wait for hours to fill one pot and after the tiresome business of collecting water; they have to climb steep hill with a vessel full with water on their head to reach home. Papun O. Sukhlein one of the oldest villager, said “during our childhood we never have any water problem whatsoever, because our hills were still covered with forest and huge trees but now the hills are barren he lamented.” The trees were cut to provide firewood for the migrant labourers who work in the mines in the lower slopes of the ridge. Ma K. Pajuh who also spoke to the scribe said “there were times when we do not take bath for weeks together because the water is so scarce.” Ioo Sukhlain a Shaktiman driver, whom we met while trying to fill the plastic water tanks (syntex) from a lake far from the village, said “we have to consume whatever water we can get even if we know that it is not fit for consumption.” Rich people were not affected by the water scarcity because they have vehicles to collect water for them from any distance, but it is the poor who have to bear the brunt.

Nongkhlieh ridge as the name itself implies is located on the top of the area surrounded by valleys on every sides. Even though the people of Nongkhlieh Elaka prohibit mining in the Elaka in any form, people living in the vicinity of the Elaka has started mining at the foot hills of the ridge. Ma Dot Phyrngap an elder in the Elaka said “ Till now the Elaka does not encourage people to register their land in the district council, because we still believe that the land belong to all the people and one owned the land only while one uses it. Once a person abandoned the land, it goes back to the Elaka and that same can be given to others.” He also said that “If we allow people to apply for Land Holding Certificate from the Council, only rich people will benefited from it while poor farmers will be deprived of their rights to land.”

It is tragic that even if there is no mining activity in Nongkhlieh till now, yet it was affected by the mining done on the lower slopes of its hills.

Brian Kharpran Daly, leader of the Meghalaya Adventure Association, who is currently camping in the area; when asked about the water crisis face by the Nongkhlieh Elaka, he said, the reason for scarcity of water is due rampant mining on the surrounding foot hills of the ridge. Simple hydrological knowledge tells us the once mining is started on the foot hills, water level will fall down. He also said that the coal mining process in the area also involved pumping out of water from the mines to facilitate mining, this not only draw the scarce commodity from underground, but it also polluted the surface water.”

Cavers found New Aquatic life in Nongkhlieh Caves

The annual cave expedition aptly called Caving in the abode of cloud organised by Meghalaya Adventure Association started on the February 2 at Nongkhlieh in the Saipung Sub Division to the east of Jowai. The cave exploration is regular annual event in which cavers from the world over took part in the expeditions; and since 1992 the cavers has surveyed and map more than 300 KM of caves in the state of Meghalaya alone.

Simon Brooks a team leader from UK and who has been caving in the different parts of the World said that the caves in the Jaintia hills especially in the Nongkhlieh ridge are unique because there are all kinds of caves both horizontal and vertical caves in the region. Bah Brian Kharpran Dally a pioneer in caving expedition among the Meghalaya and recipient of Tezing Norgay award from the government of India said that the Nongkhlieh ridge is important for the state because we have Krem Liatprah which is the longest cave and the krem Synrang Pamiang the deepest cave in the country. Brian also told this scribe that Nongkhlieh ridge is unique because in the 30 square KM area, they have mapped more than 100 KM of caves.

On the important of the scientific studies of the caves, bah Brian said that the cave is not only important to archeologist, paleontologist, zoologist and others; we now even have climatologist who came to study the caves. He also add that krem Liatprah is one of the oldest cave in the Meghalaya which had formed million of years ago and the cave is like a time capsule where climatologist learned about the monsoon and the climate change over thousand of years.

The area is exceptional caving region not only because of the network of caves, it is equally important because inside the caves there are also cave’s creatures which can be found only in the caves of this area. Most of the creatures found in the area are bats but deep down in the belly of the nature; they also found cricket with antennae ten times the size of the insect. Creature inside the cave has over the years evolved in the hostile environment of total darkness that they live so both fishes and insects have no eyes. Last year also the cavers caught a fish from one of the cave, the same has been send for study. This year rather unexpectedly, a fish was accidentally caught in one of the accessories of the cavers and bah Brian categorically confirmed that it is totally a new species altogether.

In this particular expedition, the cavers not only include professionals from abroad, but for the first time in the history of the armed force in the country, a contingent of Indian Navy under Commander Vijay Chhikara joined the expedition. Chhikara said that it is an honoured that the MAA has agreed to take them because armed force has climb mount Everest, explored North pole but, this is the first caving expedition by any branch of the armed force.

Elaka Nongkhlieh: The land of hundred caves

All Caves Photographs in this BLOG are copyrighted.

The Meghalaya Adventure Association on its objection to the proposed Cosmos cement Ltd at Nongkhlieh, described the caves in the area as ‘virtual capsules providing a uniquely preserved record of India’s past climates which could serve to give an indication of future world climatic condition.’ The Association also stated that ‘some of the caves in the area are so ancient and are therefore very important scientifically, as they were developed long before the valleys were cut. The pattern of cave development and location of the caves on Nongkhlieh ridge would provide an insight to the geological and geomorphological history of Meghalaya and Assam. But if the Cosmos cement Ltd, the government and the Meghalaya Pollution Control Board would have their way, on one fell swoop all this will be gone and lost forever.

The Nongkhlieh ridge with an area of approximately 30 square kilometer comprises of 10 villages which include Shnongrim, Khaidong, Bangla, Nongthymme, Moolesngi, Lumthari, Tongseng, Lelad, Tangnub and Nongkhlieh village. The Elaka already has a network of caves which is about 148 km long. Krem Liat-prah Um-im Labit system at 31 km is the longest in India and the deepest shaft cave in India is Krem Chrieh (Tangnub) at 97 metres. The Nongkhlieh Elaka literarily stands on network of hundreds of cave crisscrossing each other under the belly of the mother earth. MAA has simultaneously conducted Biospeleogy (study of cave dwelling fauna) and found that there is a great diversity of cave life and species in some of the caves. MAA categorically stated that any damage to the cave system would certainly destroy the fragile cave eco-system even if a large part of it is yet to be mapped and documented by the Association.

It is also ironic that while M.S. Swaminathan’s speech at the conclave at NEHU suggesting the need of ‘evergreen revolution in the north east’ was widely reported in the press, the policy makers in the state seems to forget Swaminathan’s power point presentation the moment the speaker resumed his sit. Even the young lady who shared the dais with him seems to be least bothered about his suggestion because before the speech by the eminent speaker even draw to a close, the MPA government co-led by her father has already dispatched puppet MSPCB members and officers from the district administration to conduct a public hearing for the propose setting up of Cosmos cement plant at Nongkhlieh.

The Kotsati, Umlawan and other cave system at Lumchnong, are lost forever, so, should the cave system on the Nongkhlieh ridge too be lost? Nongkhlieh is also famous becase of the Kut Sutiang where the Pnar Freedom fighter fought the last battle of independence against the British.

One hope that the concept of evergreen revolution; as suggested by the eminent scientist would not fell on deaf ears and government take up the matter of protecting the bio diversity hotspot like Nongkhlieh ridge, but sadly that was not to happen. The Nongkhlieh area is also unique because it is the source of the three main river system of Jaintia hills namely the Kupli, the Letein and the Lynju or Lukha.

It is expected that Agatha Sangma will walk the talk and make climate change an important issue in the MPA government and like the saying goes, ‘think globally act locally’ Agatha.

Jaintia Tourism Festival begins

The week long tourism festival organise by the Jaintia Tourism and Environment Society (JTES) in collaboration with the District Administration and partner NGOs will start with an inaugural function on the November 1 and followed by a carnival or road show and food festival. Then at 4 PM in the evening people will be treated a musical extravaganza in the form of a beat contest.

The first part of the programme on the second day of the festival is a cultural programme at Khliehriat followed by fishing, boating cum wine festival at the famous Sajar Niangly Lake. In the evening another dose of musical treat called down memory lane will offered to the people. The third day of the festival will include cultural programme, archery, fishing, kite flying and fire balloon flying competition at the strikingly beautiful Syntu Ksiar with Kiang Nangbah memorial stone on the backup. In the evening there will be another musical concert organise by the All India Radio, Jowai.

The fourth day is a special day in the sense that simultaneously two programme in being organised on two special locations, a Boating, swimming competion entitled War Jaintia festival at Jarain another programme is cultural cum water sport at Iooksi on the Kupli river. In the evening a special comedy show called the great Jaintia laughter challenge will be held at Iawusiang, Jowai.
The fifth day has a pack programme which will start with a Nature and cultural tour to many tourist spots of the district, and then in the afternoon a festival of flying colours will held at the Ialong park followed by an evening of thousand lights cum musical night at the same venue. The last day of the festival is the closing ceremony cum fashion extravaganza at the district library auditorium, Jowai.

Jaintia: Nature’s Own Land Beckons

Jowai town now wore a festive look even if Christmas and New Year day is three weeks away. Thanks to the annual tourism festival brand named Discover Jaintia 2008, the festive spirit is already in the air in the town in particular and the district in general. The third edition of the week long Discover Jaintia beginning on November 1, is organised by the Jaintia Tourism and Environment Society in collaboration with the District administration and other partner NGOs.

The festival adds festive spirit to the beautiful tourist spots of the district and this is the best time to visit such places. From Shillong one can visit Nartiang by taking left on reaching Ummulong. Nartiang is famous for the Monolith Park which has the largest collection of dolmen and menhir in one place and the park is also famous for the tallest and largest monolith believed to be erected by the giant u Mar Phalangki. While in Nartiang don’t forget to visit the famous Durga temple believed to be about 300 years old and a Shiv temple adjacent to it. The erstwhile Jaintia kings are believed to performed human sacrifice in the Durga temple in the days of the yore. From Nartiang one can return back on the same road to hit the National Highway 44 again and head towards Jowai. After traveling for few minutes before reaching Jowai one will see to the left; the magnificent Thadlaskein lake also known as Sajar Niangli lake; believed to be dug by Sajar Niangli and his followers with the edge of their bows only.

In Jowai there are many places to visit, the Tyrchi fall which is again only few minutes’ drive from Thadlaskein lake is another important tourist spot, but before one decide to decent down to have a view of the majestic fall one should remember that there are more 300 steps to the lower part of the fall. On reaching Jowai; one can drive to Syntu Ksiar and enjoy the beautiful view of Myntdu river, believe to be the guardian angel (ka tawiar takan) and the memorial tomb of u Kiang Nangbah, or one can also travel to Ialong which is about 6 KM from Jowai where the famous Ialong sacred grove is located.

On the second day, stating from Jowai one can travel to Muktapur which is 50 KM from Jowai ad a frontier village on the Indian side of the Indo-Bangla border. On the way one can stop and visit Thlumiwi falls and the ancient stone bridge. Then proceed further and stop at the Jarain pitcher plant lake for a while. If you want to see a living pitcher plant, you can stop at Myrkein where the small reserve forest of the Jaintia Hills Autonomous District Council is located. On reaching Amalrem about 28 KM from Jowai, to proceed to Muktapur one should take extreme left and after traveling for few minutes you will see to your left a huge sign post indicating the location of the Krangshuri falls. This again is a unique spot which has many features in the one ecosystem. Then the next stop will be at Syndai where the Rupasor the ancient bathing ghat of the Maharanis of the erstwhile King of the Janitia kingdom. Few metres down one can see the Umpubon river and in the river there is a sculpture of an elephant carved since time immemorial. Syndai also have another sculpture of “u Khmi” earthquake and to see this sculpture and the cave; one has to take the path near the river which leads to Syndai village. Syndai cave is considered to be people friendly cave.

For people with a knack for adventure, one can drive to Elaka Nongkhlieh and visit the exotic caves recently discovered and mapped by the Meghalaya Adventure Association, but a word of caution, this caves are not for amateurs. For serious cavers one can contact the MAA in Shillong. Nature loving people tempted by the wild, one can seek the help of the Divisional Forest Officer incharge of wildlife division to trek on the three protected area or the reserve forest of the district. Of the three; Narpuh is easily accessible though it is more than 60 KM from Jowai, but it is assured that it worth taking the effort.
So what else are you waiting for, pack your bags and baggage and hit the road Jack, nature is calling and Jaintia beckons.

Kopati goddess praised for bountiful harvest

(Jaintia’s Thanksgiving Festival)
The Niamtre People (people who still adhere to tribal animist religion) of the Raij Raliang in Jaintia hills today lay to rest the goddess Kopati in a colourful religious festival held at Raliang. The Kopati puja is a harvest and thanks giving religious festival which is being celebrate by the tribals of this area after rice which is the main crop of the people is harvested.

The three days festival which was started on November 26 reaches its crescendo on the second day which is the 27. The ritual on the second day begins with a ritual in the wee hour of the morning followed by the warrior dance at the sacred grove of the Raij (state comprising of several villages) Raliang. After the warrior dance; the goddess was then taken to the river Umiurem to be laid to rest.

The final journey for the goddess started from the house of the Sutnga clan which is the “ksoh blai” or the keeper of the goddess. The goddess was carried by the wamon (priest) from the Sutnga clan accompanied by the people of the Raij under the leadership of Chawas Lyngdoh the dalloi (governor) of the Elaka Raliang. The dalloi along with the pator (chief of staff) and other dignitaries of the Elaka bate goodbye to the goddess before it crossed the boundary of the village.

The procession continues and then the Harmuid and the Laram along with the drums under their command also has to bate farewell to the goddess. The remaining of the procession along with the beating of the two remaining drums; proceeds on a long and arduous journey of more than 5 KM towards the Umiurem River. After walking for several hours; passing through hills and vales and walked by the harvested paddy field, the processions finally reached the river. On reaching the river bank, everybody took their shoes off before proceeding towards the altar. The wamon then immersed in the river bunch of flower and simultaneously the Wasan-noh-blai released a dove in the middle of the river. The pigeon crossed to the other side of the river and that is a good sign that the god(s) has accepted all the sacrifices and offerings provided by the people.

After the goddess was immersed, the wamon along with his helper arrange for the offerings which include rice, sugarcane and other fruits and vegetables. The offering was offered on the altar and later it was then shared among those who were present in the ceremony. The sharing also symbolized that people can now use or partake the newly harvested rice, fruits and vegetables.

The puja Kopati is the last religious rites of the Elaka Raliang, it is people way of expressing gratitude to the gods for the plentiful harvest this year, it may be mention that people are forbid from partaking new rice, fruits and vegetables before the puja was performed. Its only after the offering was first offered to the goddess, that the people of the raij can enjoy its blessings.

Under the Elaka (state) Raliang there are 5 raij, the raij Raliang, the raij Khonchnong, raij Ynniaw Kmai, raij Ionglang and raij Lapne. All these raij has a role to play to make this religious festival a success.

The last part of the programme was the warrior dance performed by the elders of the different clans of the raij and the climax of the festival was the warrior dance between C. Lyngdoh the dalloi versus the Firstly born Synnah the pator of the Elaka. The festival which started yesterday will continue till tomorrow.

The third day of the festival consist of many more rites and ceremony like “choo daloi” escorting the daloi and the fourth day will be the final day which is called “hiar rep Langdoh” or the priest symbolic act of starting the cycle of farming again after the harvest.

Symphut: The Dead Ghost

My Parents has a Tea stall then at Iawmusiang the Main market of the Jowai, and because our Parents were pre-occupied in the Shop, they didn’t really had time to prepare meal for us at home. So every morning, noon and evening we had our morning meal, lunch and Dinner in the shop. This suits me well because for a boy of my age, having the opportunity to go to the market and spend time at our shop is nothing but a wonderful opportunity. More so, Teashop in Jowai till today served as a chat room for those who have interesting topics to discuss especially politics. It came to pass one day, while I was having my meal in the shop, I overheard people saying that a Man had disappeared from his home and the whole town was looking for him. I was a young boy then about 10 years old and Jowai was still a small sleepy hamlet. Curious as any boy of my age, I eve dropped when ever I over heard people congregated and spoke about the sudden and mystery disappearance of the Man. The whole of his locality went searching for him but to no avail. It was only after few days that he was found in the forest in the suburb of the Town. The man was found sitting on the edge of a steep. Eyewitness stated that he was in a state of Trance and had it been that he was in his normal self, he would have fall down.
During our childhood, we were forbid to wear our clothes in side out, we were told by our elders that it is a taboo less we would be carried by the “SYMPHUT” (Suit Tynjang in Khasi). I am not sure whether Symphut was a kind of Ghost or a kind of animal, but one think I was sure was that Symphut if at all it is a ghost, it is a not a bad ghost, it never harm or injured its victims. During our Childhood incidents of some body being carried by the Symphut occurred quite frequently. We were told that Symphut can change itself to a Goat and lured its victim. It was said when somebody is being carried away by the Symphut, one will be in a state of trance, never to feel hungry, pain or even losses one’s sense of fear. Symphut was one of the phenomenon that every child dreads even to think of. It is said that female are more prone to fall victim to Symphut than their male counterpart. Legends have it that when Symphut left somebody after carried (kidnapped!) somebody away; one is always left in an odd or awkward position. For example a girl was found on the top of the tree, or at the fag end of the branch of a tree, a position that she would never have been able to reach has it been that she was in her normal self.
Whenever there was an incident of somebody being carried by Symphut, It becomes a talk of the village, and because Symphut is supposedly a good ghost, he never harm his victim and therefore there is no tragic end to the story, people love talking about the incidents albeit with awe. Symphut is a ‘wonder’ that is peculiar only to the people of Khasi and Jaintia Hills and it was very popular during our childhood. What strikes me is my Children aged 10, 8 and 6 respectively seldom heard about the Symphut phenomena anymore, they even heard the name the first time when I asked them whether they have ever heard about the Symphut. Symphut has gradually slipped from our mind, where has it gone I never know. Whether it has disappeared like the foxes that used to steal chickens from our coop, and dreadfully howl from a hill where the Jowai Circuit house now stand, or did it just disappeared with the advent of Civilization and light? I just don’t know. Whether Symphut is a reality or just myth that I will never know but one thing I know, oh how I hate to remember those spine chilling howls of the foxes on those moon lit night and how we like to talk about the incident when somebody was carried away by the Symphut. Oh! the romance of the good ghost, a ghost that did no harm to its victim. Symphut in our childhood is a reality, but a reality that seems to gradually fade away.